rickety? Allow me to introduce the
$5 drill stand. Still, it's better than
nothing. Here I'm drilling the pot
holes through the top in order to
locate the control cavity.
cavities before mounting the cap (not to
mention wiring channels...), but where's
the challenge in that? Anyway, I'll be
making a template for the cavity to get me
through the first 1/2" or so and then use a
bit with a guide bushing on top to get me
the rest of the way.
could make an accurate cut for the neck
on my table saw. I screwed a piece of
wood to the front where the pickup and
neck cavities will be, aligned with the
centerline, squared up the saw (hint: 90
degrees on the cheesy Ryobi miter
fence doesn't necessarily mean 90
degrees: this time I was smart and used
a square).
grit, with the glue I used for the
binding (Super "T" with accelerator
spray. Great stuff. I get it at City
Paints in S.F., which has a really
good selection of auto and furniture
finishing stuff. Nice combination for
guitar building.).
with the router. I waited until
now in order to have more flat
surface for the neck cutoff, etc.
that's about 1/16" thick, from Tap
Plastics in S.F.) and roughly
trimmed it with a pocket knife, and
am now sanding the edges flush
to it. Usually you want to do it the
other way around, i.e. trim the
binding to the body, but there was
some uneveness that was easier
to correct with a sanding block in
the channel, plus I didn't want a
big 1/8" binding, as I think it would
make the already small body look
even smaller. My friend Daryl can
tell you all about "The Peanut" I
built back in '81. Oy.).